Outstanding outerwear from the NYFW menswear shows.
NYFW certainly had to contend with some extreme wintry weather this season, with sub-zero temperatures challenging those attending the shows to stay looking presentable, despite wind-tunnel hair, chapped lips and having to wear their entire wardrobes at once. London tends to get off lightly when it comes to such climatic extremes, so we could only applaud the professionalism of our New York cousins as they braved a frozen Manhattan with such style. Of course, all of this only focused attention on the desirability of the outerwear for AW15 being paraded on runways across the city. Here are five of the best looks from the menswear shows that could melt even the frostiest of fashion hearts.
1. For AW15, Robert Geller showed oversized coats inspired by the overcoats that Olympic fencers from the 1920s might shrug on over their uniforms: a powerful outline, brought up to date with broad, graphic stripes on shirts and trousers.
2. The work of Hood by Air designer Shayne Oliver tends to be mostly discussed in terms of his shock tactics – this time the bank raid stocking masks – and his always-diverse model casting. But as his line matures, Oliver’s work is becoming disarmingly commercial with lots of buyable pieces. This camel ensemble showed Oliver’s spin on the camel coat worn with a myriad of sub-layers from a matching mini-kilt to a hoodie.
3. Through his New York shows, Korean designer Bumsuk Choi has established a reputation with General Idea for taking on classic masculine shapes and environments (a summer collection in a vintage car showroom is memorable). For AW15, his oversized, ankle-length overcoats were worthy of a war hero.
4. Belgian designer Tim Coppens’ collection fused his ongoing exploration of tailored sportswear with the challenges of the winter months. Here forest green wool and leather panels create a sleek take on seasonal dressing.
5. Newcomer to NYFW Ryu Hayama’s Fingers Crossed won instant fans with his elegant belted overcoats, Breton stripes, leather trimmed tracksuits and above all, his playful take on rainwear. Classic raincoat yellow was given a new spin, hair was styled as if after the deluge and streamlined rain hats were cut with the precision of skyscraper-era New York deco.