Words: Cristian Burbano
Day’s three and four of New York Fashion Week: Men’s again bought some fashion heavyweights alongside smaller and independent labels. Here we look at our final picks from the last 2 days of shows.
After first showing the collection as part of London Collections: Men last month the American luxury label showed the line in its home city, New York. The showing of the collection in the city is very apt as inspiration for the season comes from East coast of America: blue collar worker style meets old school hip hop. This rebellious spirit is translated into a line of oversized, cartoon-like proportions, very snug looking in particular the faux fur overcoat (think Notorious B.I.G), bright yellow parka and shearling-trimmed leathers. This playful/toy-like theme was carried onto to smaller details with oversized zippers and rivets, rocket prints and large dinosaur 3d puzzle bag charms. Once thought of as a girly brand the label has made real strides in the field of menswear and has become an unexpected favourite in recent seasons under the hand of Stuart Vevers, and deservingly so.
Tommy Hilfiger AW16
Quintessentially American in every possible way, Tommy Hilfiger presented its AW16 Hilfiger Edition collection, looking back at its 30 year archives for a line of classic menswear staples. Classic pieces are given a youthful edit with bringing what Hilfiger calls ‘a newness’ to heritage pieces. Knitwear and outerwear featured throughout in shades of blues and reds, the looks overall embracing a more relaxed/slouchy silhouette, more forgiving to any guy with a waist above 30 inches!
Calvin Klein Collection AW16
Calvin Klein’s Creative Director, Italo Zucchelli, presented a capsule collection of formal eveningwear from Calvin Klein Collection in the form of a presentation. The special line is a continuation from the brand’s mainline show presented during Milan Men’s Fashion Week last month. The all black looks included tuxedos and outerwear and were accented in metallic (copper, silver and gold) fabrics while for the more adventurous there were all-over metallic trousers. Calf framed derby shoes accompanied each look, again in black or metallic options, with earrings and necklaces in the shapes of bolts and screws adding a fun and masculine touch.
Ricardo Seco AW16
Ricardo Seco was chosen by the Council of Fashion Designers of America as one of the emerging designers to showcase their new collections at NYFWM, in doing so becoming the only Mexican designer on schedule.
The 21-look collection title ‘Time’ focused on contemporary Mexico, bringing the rich and colourful fabrics associated with Mexican culture together with a mostly black palette in modern cuts and silhouettes. Serape (Brightly coloured and fringe Mexican fabric) featured in the most eye-catching looks alongside suede, lamb leather and fox fur.
Siki Im AW16
After being the recipient of the 2015/2016 regional International Woolmark Prize by The Woolmark Company expectations were high for Siki Im’s new collection, and it did not disappoint. Inspiration for the collection came from a distinctly dark matter, vampires, with Im referencing films including ‘The Hunger’ and ‘From Dusk Till Dawn’ (no Twilight in sight); this vampire has been given the luxe makeover with Italian fabrics and cashmere coats and trousers. The vampire theme was carried on to the make up the models wore, with several dripping blood-like paint from their faces and ears. The designer used the show to also showcase looks from his line DEN IM, which he mixed and matched with his mainline looks.
CADET’S designers Bradley Schmidt and Raul Arevalo presented their brand CADET’s first runway show for AW16. Alongside their menswear the brand also included looks from AW16 womenswear, their second women’s line, after being recommended to venture into womenswear by Vogue’s Anna Wintour no less. Looks were military-inspired in a minimal palette of blacks and greys, with a play on proportions with long and short pieces in textured and patterned wools. Mainline looks were paired with leather boots and shearling chukkas by footwear label, UGG.
So there you have it, in conclusion, New York Fashion Week: Men’s second season brought national and international press and buyers to different venues and spaces across Manhattan across four eventful days showcasing the best of the city’s menswear. Building on from its debut last summer this follow up season went a long way in joining London, Milan and Paris in establishing New York as a new destination for menswear shows.