TEXT: COLIN CHAPMAN
London Collections: Men ended on Monday, and before images fade to blur as the continental fashion capitals prepare to show us what they’ve got, here are some of the London collections (in no particular order) that most excited us here at STREETS.
Part Ziggy-era Bowie, part futuristic Zen monk, Jonathan Anderson’s vision is unsettling and completely personal. Denim has never looked like this nor so elegantly high fashion.
Craig Green continues to entrance with his combination of easy Eastern grace, utilitarian details and an innate instinct for colour and proportion.
The lace shirts at Burberry Prorsum were as decadent as anything fin de siècle Europe could have imagined, but, reined in from foppishness by lean tailoring they became almost understated and eminently desirable.
Sarah Burton’s ancient mariner inspired collection, full of sailor motifs and tattoo talismans, was just one SS16 collection with an air of romance about it. The ‘mended’ denim suits showed how far this fabric can be pushed.
British designer Stuart Vevers has transformed the American luxury brand. A paean to late ‘60s psychedelia, matched with ‘90s downtown dressing, Vevers’ version of Americana is brilliantly selective and excitingly modern.
In less skilled hands, a collection inspired by Hacienda-era Manchester could have been crass and obvious, instead Lou gave us warped checks, vibrant colour and the kind of cargo pants and utility jackets the Milanese dream of.
Ever the bohemian, James Long SS16 was fueled by visions of decadent yet down-at-heel Regency grandeur and resulted in nonchalant layers and exotic-looking knitwear.
A subtle showman, Miller initially sent up the audience’s expectations with sharp business tailoring, but subversion eventually flared with tactile crumpled surfaces and distressed hems disrupting the formality.
Epicentre of London’s fashion energy, Sibling took on the American Jock and left the audience gasping for more. Details usually left in the locker room were scaled up, sexed up and given a Pop Art focus through use of vivid colour.
An Astrid Andersen collection is instantly recognisable, yet the designer continues to evolve through diverse inspirations and fabrics, as here where familiar sportswear shapes were taken into pure luxury through representations of shimmering, Chinese floral fabrics, in acid tones and lilac.
Baartmans & Siegel
Baartmans & Siegel can always be trusted to create clothes we want to wear. With a stark white and grey palette, elegant tailoring and easy-going shapes were combined with a smattering of shredded white denim to dress the most bad-ass cowboys in town.
Like a social historian documenting the less celebrated aspects of Britain’s past, Patrick Grant pondered the post-War emergence of leisure time and of clothes to spent it in, giving us graphic T-shirts and some of the most generously wide-leg trousers in town as a result.
Kooky Kit Neale took a trip to the car boot sale, with luxed-up floral fabrics and oversized T-shirts celebrating random visual combination and forgotten treasures. Kurt Cobain borrowed Grayson Perry’s favourite frock for the finale.
A reinvigorated Fashion East took over the ICA, with wildly contrasting visions from Charles Jeffrey and Wales Bonner, torn between the dancefloor as the ultimate catwalk and a languid idyll of black male princedom.
Alarmingly talented, the father/son duo continues to make the whole game look effortless. Vivid greens and metallic socks worn with Ancient Greek style sandals were just some of countless styling touches we’re still absorbing.
Agi & Sam
Demonstrating the art of being yourself, Agi & Sam created a collection inspired by their own wardrobes, featuring oversized silhouettes, minimal workwear styling and playful hand-drawn stripes.