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TEXT: COLIN CHAPMAN

 

London Collections: Men ended on Monday, and before images fade to blur as the continental fashion capitals prepare to show us what they’ve got, here are some of the London collections (in no particular order) that most excited us here at STREETS.

 

J.W. Anderson

 

Part Ziggy-era Bowie, part futuristic Zen monk, Jonathan Anderson’s vision is unsettling and completely personal. Denim has never looked like this nor so elegantly high fashion.

 

JWAnderson

 

Craig Green

 

Craig Green continues to entrance with his combination of easy Eastern grace, utilitarian details and an innate instinct for colour and proportion.

 

CraigGreen

 

Burberry Prorsum

 

The lace shirts at Burberry Prorsum were as decadent as anything fin de siècle Europe could have imagined, but, reined in from foppishness by lean tailoring they became almost understated and eminently desirable.

 

BurberryProrsum

 

Alexander McQueen

 

Sarah Burton’s ancient mariner inspired collection, full of sailor motifs and tattoo talismans, was just one SS16 collection with an air of romance about it. The ‘mended’ denim suits showed how far this fabric can be pushed.

 

McQueen_SS16

 

Coach

 

British designer Stuart Vevers has transformed the American luxury brand. A paean to late ‘60s psychedelia, matched with ‘90s downtown dressing, Vevers’ version of Americana is brilliantly selective and excitingly modern.

 

Coach

 

Lou Dalton

 

In less skilled hands, a collection inspired by Hacienda-era Manchester could have been crass and obvious, instead Lou gave us warped checks, vibrant colour and the kind of cargo pants and utility jackets the Milanese dream of.

 

LouDalton_2

 

James Long

 

Ever the bohemian, James Long SS16 was fueled by visions of decadent yet down-at-heel Regency grandeur and resulted in nonchalant layers and exotic-looking knitwear.

 

JamesLong

 

Matthew Miller

 

A subtle showman, Miller initially sent up the audience’s expectations with sharp business tailoring, but subversion eventually flared with tactile crumpled surfaces and distressed hems disrupting the formality. 

 

MatthewMiller

 

Sibling

 

Epicentre of London’s fashion energy, Sibling took on the American Jock and left the audience gasping for more. Details usually left in the locker room were scaled up, sexed up and given a Pop Art focus through use of vivid colour.

 

Sibling

 

Astrid Andersen

 

An Astrid Andersen collection is instantly recognisable, yet the designer continues to evolve through diverse inspirations and fabrics, as here where familiar sportswear shapes were taken into pure luxury through representations of shimmering, Chinese floral fabrics, in acid tones and lilac.

 

AstridAndersen

 

Baartmans & Siegel

 

Baartmans & Siegel can always be trusted to create clothes we want to wear. With a stark white and grey palette, elegant tailoring and easy-going shapes were combined with a smattering of shredded white denim to dress the most bad-ass cowboys in town.

 

BaartmansSiegel

 

E.Tautz

 

Like a social historian documenting the less celebrated aspects of Britain’s past, Patrick Grant pondered the post-War emergence of leisure time and of clothes to spent it in, giving us graphic T-shirts and some of the most generously wide-leg trousers in town as a result.

 

ETautz

 

Kit Neale

 

Kooky Kit Neale took a trip to the car boot sale, with luxed-up floral fabrics and oversized T-shirts celebrating random visual combination and forgotten treasures. Kurt Cobain borrowed Grayson Perry’s favourite frock for the finale.

 

KitNeale

 

Fashion East

 

A reinvigorated Fashion East took over the ICA, with wildly contrasting visions from Charles Jeffrey and Wales Bonner, torn between the dancefloor as the ultimate catwalk and a languid idyll of black male princedom.

 

FashionEast

 

Casely-Hayford

 

Alarmingly talented, the father/son duo continues to make the whole game look effortless. Vivid greens and metallic socks worn with Ancient Greek style sandals were just some of countless styling touches we’re still absorbing.

 

Casely_Hayford

 

Agi & Sam

 

Demonstrating the art of being yourself, Agi & Sam created a collection inspired by their own wardrobes, featuring oversized silhouettes, minimal workwear styling and playful hand-drawn stripes.

 

Agi_and_Sam